How to Waterproof Hiking Boots | Restore The Repellency

For the full breakdown, see our best Youth Waterproof Hiking Boots guide.

Waterproofing hiking boots isn’t a one-time fix, it’s seasonal care. Dirt blocks the treatment, the wrong product won’t bond, and heat ruins the glue that holds the boot together. Done right, the process restores water repellency so rain beads up and rolls off instead of soaking the upper. Here’s the order that works, what to use for each material, and the mistakes that cause most failures.

Clean The Boots Before You Treat Them

Remove the laces first so you can reach the full upper. Then clean the boots with water and a proper boot cleaner. REI’s gear experts recommend a technical product like Nikwax Footwear Cleaning Gel, and they emphasize rinsing thoroughly afterward. Dirt and grime prevent even coverage and block the treatment from bonding to the material.

Skip this step and you’re waterproofing the dirt, not the boot. Give the uppers time to dry or, when the product instructions require it, make them properly damp before applying.

Pick The Treatment That Matches The Material

Your boot’s upper material dictates which product type works. Use the wrong one and you waste the effort or damage the leather. This one decision matters more than any other.

The logic is simple. Wax forms a durable barrier for smooth, full-grain leather. Sprays penetrate porous nubuck, suede, and fabric without stiffening or darkening them. REI notes that mixed-material boots respond well to products like Nikwax Fabric & Leather Proof, which handles both surfaces at once.

Apply The Treatment The Right Way

For full-grain leather, get the boots thoroughly wet before applying wax. REI warns that simply running water over the boots isn’t enough; if they’re bone dry, wrap wet towels around them for a couple of hours first. Work the wax into the seams and creases with your fingers or a cloth, applying a thin, even layer.

Sprays follow a different rhythm. Hold the can roughly six inches from the boot and apply several light coats rather than one heavy one. For suede and nubuck, this keeps the nap from matting down. After about ten minutes, polish wax-treated leather to a smooth finish. In both cases, don’t forget the seams, creases, eyelets, and hardware, these are the first places water sneaks in.

Dry Boots Slowly, Away From Heat

Heat is the enemy. REI and Backroads both warn against drying boots with any heat source, since high temperatures can damage the glue holding the boot together. Instead, dry boots at normal room temperature in low humidity, with airflow from a fan if you need to speed things up. Stuff newspaper inside the boots and swap it out when it gets damp; it wicks moisture from the inside out. Keep them out of direct sun as well.

The exception is wax-based products that specifically call for warmth. Backroads notes you can warm wax with a hair dryer before applying it, but even then, the boots themselves stay away from heat while drying. Let the treatment cure fully before you hit the trail, usually overnight.

Work through this routine once or twice a season, and your boots will keep shedding water for years. When you need new pairs for the whole family, you can find durable youth models that are built for wet trails.